Primitivista Paintings from Solentiname

"Flora y Fauna" by Solignia Arellano. Oil on canvas. 14" X 11".

The primitive or "naive" genre of painting can be found around the world in virtually every culture. It is a special kind of artistic expression that speaks to the most fundamental emotions of the human species. The palette of this genre is often bright, deep and rich. The subject matter is timeless and easy to relate to, and the style is by definition straightforward and direct. Whatever the appeal, it has a universal attraction.

In Nicaragua, an unusual thread of primitive or naive painting developed in the island archipelago of Solentiname in the south end of Lake Nicaragua. The initial development of the artistic community of Solentiname came through the efforts of Padre Ernesto Cardenal who settled in the islands in the 1960's, and started a spiritual community. Over the course of ten years, he also encouraged the islanders to experiment with artistic endeavors. As a natural consequence, the artistic, spiritual and economic strands in Solentiname became intertwined, resulting in what has become known as "liberation theology". For more information see /www.nicaartgallery.com/artist/solentiname.asp.

The artist who created the beautiful NicaPOD today is Solignia Arellano, of the famous Arellano family workshop.

Historic Managua Cathedral of Santiago

When you see this magnificent structure, it takes your breath away! It is located near the Mirador on Lake Managua, in what used to be the old center of the city. During the earthquake of 1972, most of Managua's city center was destroyed, and to this day is still a sad site of mangled hulls and skeletons of old buildings that have become new slums.

But the historic cathedral, although seriously damaged by the earthquake, still stands. It is unfortunately damaged so badly that it is closed with heavy chains and locks, but is still magnificent in it's shattered splendor. This remarkable structure was built in 1927 by the Belgian architectural firm Dambach and Gathier in the "Ateliers Metalurgiques de Nivelles" in Belgium. It was the first building in Nicaragua to use a steel structure.

A 2003 report of the International Council of Monuments and Sites describes a dismal future for the cathedral. It was abandoned from 1972 to the 1990's when it scheduled for renovation with international assistance. However, the plans were put on hold when unsolvable problems with the foundation were discovered. The worst enemies of the Cathedral of Santiago are now vandalism, threats of earthquakes, and continuing deterioration from lack of any conservation efforts. Such a lovely building, but only a shadow of what it once was -- if you have the chance, visit it before it is gone.

Cerro Negro

Speaking of volcanoes (see post from Friday, March 28, 2008), Cerro Negro lies near the historic city of Leon. Cerro Negro means "black hill" in Spanish, which is a perfect description of the slopes of this very young volcano. Because it was formed less than 160 years ago, in 1850, the erupted volcanic rock hasn't broken down enough to allow plants and trees to survive. We visited and climbed half-way up the rudimentary trail on our first visit to Nicaragua. Cerro Negro has a stark, poetic beauty, and last erupted in 1999. According to the USGS, Cerro Negro is classified as a cinder cone volcano, and is one of the best known examples of a cinder cone that has erupted more than once. This is a picture of me (in flowered pants), our son (at top of hill), and our Nicaraguan geologist guide from the Nicaraguan geophysics department of the national government, who kindly gave us a fabulous tour. Chuck, my husband, who is the geologist in our family, is taking the picture.

Volcanoes and Beach Front in the Largest Country in Central America!

Yes, Nicaragua is the largest country in Central America! Approximately the size of the state of New York, it has both east and west coasts, and therefore lots of surfing, and water and beach front areas.

Nicaragua has another claim to fame -- many active volcanoes! Who could ask for more -- beach front and active volcanoes. But there IS more. It is one of the most lush and beautiful countries in the world, where the people are generous and kind. If you've never been there, hop on a plane out of Miami and you will be in Managua in 2 hours!

Eggs as Art

Although the supermarkets in Managua are full of all kinds of fresh and prepared foods, just like in the USA, in the mercados you can purchase fresh vegetables, fruit, tortillas, meat, dairy products and eggs as well. When I saw these wonderfully wrapped eggs being sold by an elderly peasant woman, I recognized them as not only food, but as a fabulous, practical and beautiful packaging job! They are wrapped in banana leaves, so the packaging is even recyclable!

Escuela "Palacio de Cultura" in Granada

In central Granada, next to the central park, is a grand 16th century Spanish colonial building which houses an immersion Spanish language school, as well as a variety of social and cultural programs for youth and families. The building, known as the "Palacio de Cultura", is truly elegant and monumental with polished stone floors, colonnaded walk-ways, and balconies overlooking the stage. When I visited, there were teenagers lounging around the center atrium waiting for their classes.

The Red Lady

In the mountainous fields around San Juan de Limay, marmolina or soapstone abounds. It is so prevalent that artists create huge stone sculptures randomly in the fields! As Jan and I drove into San Juan de Limay, we spied several "red ladies" keeping an eye on the traffic. The variety of colors of the marmolina ranges from dark red to clear almost translucent white, to marbled with red, pale green or blue veins, some with pale golden flecks.

Jose Trinidad Rodriguez

As a member of the cooperative of marmolina sculptors, or COOSMANNICA, in San Juan de Limay, Jose Trinidad Rodriguez makes his living creating a variety of three dimensional works from the versatile and beautiful marmolina stone. The artists mine the stone from the mountain quarries themselves, choosing the color and clarity they prefer. They then bring it back to the workshop by truck and unload it. It is very very hard work, from which lovely sculptures eventually emerge! The sculptures are then hand-polished with shoe polish, and exhibited either in the small retail outlet in the nearby town of Esteli, or simple lined up on the floor of the workshop for the occasional purchaser who makes the arduous trip through the mountains to San Juan de Limay. Many examples of marmolina sculptures are also available in various markets throughout Nicaragua.

San Juan de Limay

The mountains around the small town of San Juan de Limay are the source of the rich marmolina rock (soapstone) used by talented sculptors in this region. The cooperative of soapstone sculptors maintains a small retail store in Esteli. My friend, guide and translator, Jan, and I took a very quick trip through the mountains on a road so rough we were forced to backtrack and take a new route to reach San Juan de Limay! Our poor little rental car was tested, and we were bounced and buffeted from head to toe. But meeting the sculptors and learning about the soapstone quarrying was worth it. We both purchased beautiful sculptures, and hope to return to meet more of the artists.