Wednesday, June 18, 2008

Eating Out for Pennies - Huembes Restaurants


Huembes Mercado in Managua has everything; we all know that. But many of us don't have a chance to appreciate the amazing prepared food that is available at the many tiny restaurants and cafes within the Mercado walls.

The hot food was the most appetizing to me -- stews and soups of all description! Couldn't be more delicious! A nutritious meal is around 20 to 50 cords, and ranges from a simple lunch to a veritable feast! Of course sweets and cakes and pastries, as well as refrescos and coffee were also available to round out a wonderful meal.

















Strolling mariachi bands would sometimes wander through, playing a song for a sweetheart!




















The women who prepared the food were often small businesswomen, and ran the food stalls with family help. I enjoyed wandering the aisles and sniffing the delicious aromas!

Tuesday, June 17, 2008

Pewter of Nicaragua

My quest for Nicaraguan pewter began as a small wisp of an idea. There wasn't a lot of pewter in the markets, and I didn't know any specific artists involved in pewter molding. Nevertheless, it was a journey that drew me along the Managua-Masaya Road to the family workshop and sales area of Enrique Castellon. There I learned that each mold is designed by hand by the artisan, and the pewter is poured, cooled and polished in a painstaking process with few modern aids -- it is almost completely a process managed by individual artisan actions, purposefully and deliberately. The results are beautiful, with unique shapes, vessel types, and surface designs.



As you may know, the new divided highway between Managua and Masaya is a wonderful improvement over the old rutted road, but the relative speed of travel forces one to miss a lot of the charm of the scenery and people. The Castellon workshop is an example of just the kind of charm that is easy to miss. The workshop is hidden behind the corrugated metal fencing just beyond the small open hut that serves as their shop.





To reach their spot on the road, we had to travel beyond them on the divided highway, twirl round the round-about, and make our way back to pull off the road near their shop. The way I remembered their location was to keep a view of the Masaya volcano on my right. Somewhere about when the volcano was in the middle of the my right-hand vision, the Castellon workshop was nearby! Not exactly precise directions, but very Nicaraguan! And the beautiful view of the volcano on one side of the road and the lush expanse of valley and hills on the other made the drive a delight!

In the end, we requested about 5 pieces including platters and bowls, and returned for them a week later. It was well worth the wait! Next visit, I want to find more family pewter workshops and get photos of the artisans at work!

Monday, June 16, 2008

Bright Balsa Wood Carvings From Solentiname


Solentiname Islands excels in two distinct types of creative production -- balsa wood carving and painting, and oil painting on canvas or linen. Our hotel was on an island (Mancarron) that was a center for balsa wood sculpture, so we started with a walking tour of the homes / workshops of a group of about 25 families who fish for their primary living, and carve balsa for extra income. The community, named Refugio, has been developed specifically to promote the production of marketable goods and give the local people a more steady source of income. When the community is fully developed, a total of 125 families are expected to live and work here. There is a elementary school and a church, a health clinic (supported by non-governmental funds) which was built through community effort, and at one time the productive activities included furniture construction.

High school age kids either go to San Carlos for continued education (an hour away across the lake), or within the last few years, a Spanish NGO has supported teachers to come to Solentiname every 15 days for a week-end crash course in high school subjects. This is currently the main educational option for local high school kids. Based on our limited discussion with some artisan families, most of the young people will expect to stay in the islands when finishing school. Few expect to go to college.

Below, Arsenio Carillo-Romero and his wife, Amelia Romero (in rocking chair) carve and paint balsa wood they obtained from Papaturo, near the Costa Rican border. Amelia Romero was credited with teaching her husband the trade.














Right, Lydia Castillo Romero paints a balsa porpoise with acrylic paint. Lydia told us that all the artists develop their own designs. Each and every form is hand-carved, then sanded to a satin smooth finish and painstakingly painted.



To the left, long time residents of 36 years, Jose Andrea Romero Obando and his wife Luisa Amanda Sandoval Guadamus. Jose is holding a unique design of his own, an anhinga, a water bird known for sitting on posts with its wings stretched to dry in the sun. We saw anhingas in Texas where we lived on the water years ago, and found them again on Lago Cocibolca. Below, a portrait of the shy and reluctant Jose Romero. He is reputed to be one of the finest balsa sculptors on the island.



Right, kids begin their apprenticeship early -- first beginning with sanding, later moving to painting. Three year old Jefri Miriam Arguilar stops her sanding to stare at the weird strangers!



Rafael Chavarria and his wife, Reina Jimenez Ledessma (not pictured), regular balsa sculptors, were very outspoken, and shared their thoughts on how the community is improving over time. They were wholeheartedly in favor of the premise of my blog and Nicaraguan art sales effort -- to give recognition to the artists so people around the world can appreciate their work. A figure like the chicken Rafael is painting takes 2 days of detailed hand painting.

Reina envisions a telephone and computer that will link the community to the world. She also wants to have teachers resident on the island for all the kids of the village -- not an unreasonable hope for a parent.

Irena Chavarrio Jimenez, 14 and her sister, hard at work, but she can't help smiling as the adults talk. Irena works carefully and seriously.

At the time we were visiting, all the residents of the community were preparing for a large exposition at the central mall in Managua, Metro Centro. We saw boxes and boxes full of balsa sculptures, representing hours of work, and wished them the best of luck!